North Goa
North Goa is a part of India I’ve been visiting since I was 22 (that’s 16 years now 😬), and it’s a place that somehow manages to feel both grounding and exciting every single time.
When it comes to beaches, Ashwem is where we always come. Yes, it has modernised and become a bit fancier over the years, but the soul of the place is still there. The food remains excellent, the same lovely ladies still walk the beach selling sarongs, and there are always familiar faces—people who seem to live in Goa for six months of the year and disappear everywhere else for the remaining six. It’s comforting, familiar, and exactly why I keep coming back.
Restaurants
For the day
La Plage – Ashwem
French / European
An absolute institution. French-run, consistently excellent food, great vibes, and a place that makes it onto my list no matter how short the trip is.
The Kingfish ceviche and the tuna steak are always at the top of my order—no experimenting needed here. Relaxed, stylish, and reliably good.
Prana Cafe – Arambol Beach
Healthy, global café food / Mexican-inspired
A brilliant place to spend the day. They have sunbeds out front, so you can arrive with all your beach kit, settle in, swim, sunbathe—and then wander straight into the restaurant for lunch.
Everything is good, but the tacos are particularly worth ordering. Best enjoyed with a picante, ideally while still sandy and sun-kissed.
Ashwem Cafe – Ashwem
Seafood / Modern coastal
A fairly new addition and a very welcome one. Easy-going and versatile, it works well for either lunch or dinner.
Lots of really good seafood options, fresh flavours, and a menu that feels current without being overcomplicated.
For the evening
Jardin d’Ulysse – Mandrem
European / Mediterranean
A golden oldie tucked away in Manu6drem and still one of the most beautiful dining spots in North Goa. Spread across different levels and lit with fairy lights, it has a romantic, slightly timeless feel.
The food is consistently delicious, and the last time I visited there was beautiful live acoustic music, which made the evening feel quietly magical.
Gunpowder – Assagao (inland)
South Indian regional
Located inland in Assagao, this is a must if you want bold, flavour-forward Indian food done exceptionally well.
Regional South Indian dishes, vibrant spices, and excellent cocktails make this a lively and memorable dinner choice.
Grumps – Assagao
Modern European / comfort food
Located in Assagao, this was a first-time visit for me on my most recent trip—and it instantly shot to the top of my favourites list for evening dining.
Warm, cosy, and full of personality, it’s the kind of place you want to linger. Thoughtful food, great atmosphere, and perfect for a relaxed but special night out.
Sublime – Assagao
European fine dining
Tucked away in Assagao, Sublime is a long-time North Goa favourite and one for a slower, more indulgent evening.
Intimate, understated, and quietly confident, the food is refined without being fussy. A classic for a reason—and ideal when you’re in the mood for something a little special.
